There’s a particular joy in European travel, a blend of history, culture, and unparalleled culinary experiences. Our recent journey through France, encompassing the renowned vineyards of Bordeaux and the iconic streets of Paris, offered a rich tapestry of moments, from the expected delights to a few unanticipated turns.
Thursday: The Journey Begins
Our adventure commenced with the usual transit rhythm. The train journey felt extended, leading to a brisk pace to make our gate, which we successfully did. The flight itself was thankfully uneventful, providing a calm interlude before our arrival in France.
Friday: Settling into Bordeaux
Upon landing, we opted to stay at an airport hotel to rest and freshen up, a practical choice before heading into the city’s bustle. A train ride brought us into Paris, where we met up with Edward and Jordan. Together, we caught the train to Bordeaux. Our accommodation upon arrival was notably beautiful, providing an immediate sense of comfort. Dinner was at Chez Thérèse, where we enjoyed a croustillant, pate, steak frites, and a Saint Emilion 2016 wine. After the long day, we settled in for a much-needed rest.
Saturday: Wine and Market Delights
We started Saturday feeling well-rested. After enjoying some pastries, we visited the market to gather provisions for that evening’s dinner. The highlight of the day was a comprehensive wine tour to Saint Emilion and Pomerol. Our host, Marina, was exceptional, providing an excellent overview of the region’s celebrated wines. Later, Jordan prepared a delicious dinner of steak and a fennel/cucumber salad.
Sunday: A Bordeaux Morning
Sunday began leisurely with coffee and pastries enjoyed in our apartment. We then made our way to the market, a vibrant hub of local life. A unique experience was enjoying oysters and white wine at 10 AM – a true taste of local tradition. We purchased food for the next couple of days before heading to Nomad for lunch. The afternoon was spent wandering around the town and along the river, soaking in the atmosphere, before returning to relax.
Monday: Excursion to Sarlat
Monday involved a walk to the train station, accompanied by coffees and croissants. We took the train to Sarlat, a picturesque medieval town. Lunch at Gueule & Gosier Restaurant provided a satisfying break before we embarked on the Rick Steves walk around the center ville. The train journey back to Bordeaux was smooth, and we concluded the day with dinner at La Brasserie Bordelaise.
Tuesday: Graves, Sauternes, and Pessac-Léognan
Our morning began with pastries before we set out on another wine tour, this time exploring the Graves, Sauternes, and Pessac-Léognan regions. Our guide, Jeremy, was both informative and personable, making the experience enjoyable. That evening, we prepared a dinner of eggs, mushrooms, lardons, and salad.
Wednesday: Lascaux and Unforeseen Changes
Wednesday saw us up early, though perhaps not quite as early as necessary for the day’s itinerary. After breakfast with eggs, chorizo, and salad, we walked to the Hertz rental location at the back of the train station. What followed was a minor adventure: the car was difficult to find, and they provided a manual transmission instead of an automatic, leading to me driving.
We drove to Lascaux to tour the cave replica, a fascinating historical experience. A quick lunch at the museum cafe preceded our drive back to Bordeaux. Due to an accident causing significant traffic, we made the decision to scrap our planned pastry class. Instead, we enjoyed a very pleasant evening of food, wine, friends, and a game of Bananagrams, ending with some comedy bits on YouTube.
Thursday: Transition to Paris
Thursday started with an early morning. After picking up some pastries (finally going myself), we said goodbye to Jordan and Edward, who were departing on an earlier train to Paris. We then cleaned and vacated the apartment. We spent some time at Ginkho on Place St Michel before having lunch at Au Bistrot, where we tried boudin noir and pigeon with roast vegetables. We walked to the train station for our journey to Paris. The train was late, but we eventually departed. Upon arrival in Paris, we checked into the Seven Hotel. Virginia began to feel unwell, so we opted to stay in for the evening. I walked around the neighborhood and picked up a soujouk wrap from a Lebanese takeaway.
Friday: Parisian Gardens and Culinary Delights
Friday brought a later start than any other day, as Virginia was still unwell, leading us to linger until 10:30 AM. We had petit déjeuner at Cafe Les Ursulines before walking to the Luxembourg Gardens, where we relaxed for a few hours. Lunch consisted of a simple ham and Emmenthaler sandwich from a nearby boulangerie. After returning to the room for some rest, we headed back out around 5:30 PM.
An aperitif at Cafe La Bourgogne near Rue Mouffetard preceded a walk up to the Seine. We took a hop-on-hop-off boat to the Louvre, then spent some time in the Louvre gardens before walking back to the 5th arrondissement. We sat in the Luxembourg Gardens again before our dinner at Les Papilles, which was lovely as always. The meal included chilled cauliflower soup with bacon, slow-cooked lamb shoulder with Provençal vegetables, blue cheese, and a berry cream, paired with a 2016 Les Pallieres Gigondas.
Saturday: Departure from Paris
Our final day began with a late start. After breakfast off Rue Mouffetard, we packed up and checked out. The express train to the airport helped make up for our earlier walk to Port Royal, only to find the station closed. We experienced long waits through passport control and security, but a last-minute upgrade was a welcome surprise. Our flight landed ahead of schedule, bringing our extensive French journey to a smooth close.
Note: generated by Google Gemini from Chris’ notes